Multifunctional, heterogeneous, sectored technical fabric, directly usable for manufacturing various finished articles or products

ABSTRACT

A method for obtaining a multifunctional, heterogeneous, sectored technical fabric usable for manufacturing various finished articles or products. A multiplicity of respectively different functional areas are defined and marked on a template of a flexible part belonging to the article to be produced; a multisector fabric including a multiplicity of respectively different textile sectors is constructed, which sectors respectively correspond to the areas defined in step (a), the latter being able to be respectively contained in the different sectors; the fabric constructed according to step (b) is woven to obtain a multisector fabric part; fabric cutting means are available, able to be referenced with respect to the drawing of the fabric; and the monoblock but multifunctional flexible part is thus directly cut and obtained. The invention can find an application in different sectors, and in particular in that of footwear for which the upper has to be obtained.

The present invention relates to the field of textiles for technicaluse, or technical fabrics, i.e. textile or woven materials for which thechoice of the textile materials and/or of the weaving mode isprincipally made according to or guided by certain technical orpractical functions, properties or characteristics of the fabricobtained.

More particularly, the invention relates to technical fabrics comprisingtechnical threads, of simple or complex construction, themselves havingone or more technical features chosen for a specific application orapplications of the technical fabric obtained by weaving of the latter.

As is well known to the person skilled in the trade, conventionally, anytechnical fabric does however remain a fabric, i.e. an assembly,intertwining or interlacing of threads, which are for examplerectilinear, i.e. warp and weft, essentially in a single plane, in atleast two dimensions or directions, i.e. warp and weft; the presentinvention not having the intention of excluding technical fibres, called3D fibres, i.e. which have a certain thickness. Such a technical fabriccan moreover conventionally be defined, in addition to its intrinsiccharacteristics, by the nature of the threads composing it, theconstruction, structure, or elementary weaving pattern, able to have aschematic or graphic representation or definition, which is repeatedperiodically in the direction of the warp and/or the direction of theweft. It is this elementary pattern conventionally defined by the weave(including the type, repeat, or pace), possibly the step number, thedensity of the warp and weft threads, or thread count, and/or any otherrelevant weaving parameters, such as the transparency, which enables theperson skilled in the trade to choose the loom required for the weavingand to prepare it so as to be able to obtain, in a single weavingoperation, any part of the technical fabric the width of which willcorrespond, give or take the selvedges, to that of the passage of theweft threads.

Consequently, conventionally, any part of a technical fabric or anytechnical fabric presents an ordered monolithic, and thereforehomogenous, structure or construction, from one end of the warp to theother, and/or from one selvedge to the other in the direction of theweft, as it repeats the same pattern or the same elementary weavingconstruction.

Assuming it to be “technical” in the sense defined above, this isexactly what the document WO 2013/103 363 describes and shows, inparticular with reference to its FIG. 5. This document describes variousfabrics, of mesh type, i.e. presenting a large transparency butremaining conventional or traditional in their construction or structurein that they repeat the same weaving pattern in the direction of thewarp and/or of the weft. Thus, considering paragraph 0086 of thedescription of WO 2013/103 363, in combination with FIGS. 1 and 5, thisdocument describes a fabric of mesh type assembling high tensilestrength warp threads (made from Nylon® for example) with non-hightensile strength weft threads (made from polyester for example), andrepeating the same elementary weaving pattern, i.e. a pattern of plaidtype.

The present invention is now presented and explained in the context ofmanufacture or production of various worked or manufactured articles orproducts, such as certain articles of footwear, for example footwearsuitable for the pursuit of a sport, in particular a racket sport. Butthis context chosen to illustrate the various and varied possibilitiesand applications of the present invention should naturally not beconstrued to limit the interpretation and scope of the claims set outhereunder.

Today, as shown by WO 2013/103 363, different worked or manufacturedarticles or products, such as footwear suitable for the pursuit of a thesport, for example a racket sport, comprise one or more parts, items orcomponents made from flexible material(s) and of small thickness, suchas the shoe upper. These parts or items are functional in that,respectively in different areas of the upper and/or of the shoe, theyhave to provide one or more respectively different technical orpractical performances, such as an abrasion resistance, breathability,support, flexibility, etc., and possibly an aesthetic aspect.

In general, for any one part, such as the upper of sports footwear, thetechnical performances expected or obtained differ from one area toanother and/or, for the same technical performance, have respectivelydifferent values depending on the areas concerned.

As is not indicated by WO 2013/103 636, taking the example of racketsport footwear and considering the left or right foot, the upper has toperform support of the foot, more or less on the left and right sides,and in the centre, and remain flexible at the front of the foot and inthe centre along the axis of the shoe.

To conciliate these differentiated technical/practical requirementsdepending on the areas of a specific part involved, for example a sportsshoe upper, the only solution used at the present time essentiallyconsists in assembling, i.e. joining and/or superposing differentpieces, for example by stitching or sticking, previously cut out fromrespectively different materials, for example flexible fabric and strongfabric; each of these pieces performing, in the area where it isarranged on the part obtained by assembly, approximately a singlefunction, for example support of the foot on both sides in the case of aracket sport shoe.

From the industrial manufacturing standpoint, in order to conciliatethese differentiated technical/practical requirements according to theareas of the part involved, it is therefore compulsory to perform orobtain an assembly of a multiplicity of more or less mono-functionalpieces, previously obtained, for example cut out, from flexiblematerials of small thickness which are very different from one another,for example leather, fabric, or plastic material in sheet form.

This technical and industrial approach admittedly enables a part to beobtained, for example a footwear upper, with differentiated propertiesor characteristics according to the areas of the latter which areconsidered, but obviously at the cost of a complexity both of design andof manufacture/production.

Indeed, in addition to the fact that different materials are implementedfor the above-mentioned purposes, assembly can only be performed inpractice by manual operations such as stitching or sticking, and hardlylends itself to automation for mass-produced articles, such as sportshoes. Furthermore, such an assembly, however well it is performed,generates lines of weakness or of lesser strength, precisely along thejoining lines between the assembled pieces.

This is what the document WO 2013/103 363 shows, for example byreference to the execution mode according to FIGS. 20A to 20C. Whenparticular properties have to be provided in certain areas of the shoe,for example to enhance the liaison of the shoe with the foot, the fabricforming the upper is lined inside and therefore assembled with differentstrips and/or an intermediate layer.

Consequently, when different properties or characteristics have to beprovided in the finished flexible part, such as a shoe upper, dependingon the areas of said part involved, the state of the art, and also thedocument WO 2013/103 363 (which essentially describes a shoe intendedfor decorative or fashion purposes) only disclose assembly solutions, onthe surface and/or in-depth, with different parts or components of thefabric constituting the part, added-on at the appropriate locations ofthe latter.

Consequently, according to the state of the art, of which WO 2013/103363 forms a part, different functions or properties are not able to bedifferentiated and assigned in any one finished flexible part, made fromfabric, excepting any appropriate and localised assembly of parts addedonto the fabric.

The purpose of the present invention is to remedy the shortcomingsidentified in the foregoing.

An object of the present invention is to provide a technical fabric,considered as a semi-product, or more exactly a pre-product, or directprecursor of a textile part, itself essential for manufacturing,obtaining, or producing an article, or a finished product, for example asports footwear upper.

An object of the present invention is to provide such a technicalfabric, defined on a case by case basis, from the above-mentionedtextile part, analysed and considered in situ, i.e. in the finishedproduct in which it is integrated or of which it forms a part, once saidproduct has been manufactured.

An object of the present invention is to provide such a technical fabricdefined from its technical or practical properties or characteristics,differentiated according to the areas of the textile part involved,according to the use, usage, or properties required for the article towhich the textile part belongs after manufacturing.

An object of the present invention is to provide a technical fabricdesigned and obtained from the functions and properties differentiatedby design or according to the use of the textile part and/or of thefinished part in which the textile part is integrated.

It is a further object of the present invention to obtain amultifunctional flexible part, for example a footwear upper, breakingaway from the present-day design and industrial practice, including thatdescribed by WO 2013/103 363.

An object of the present invention is to obtain a multifunctionalflexible part of the technical textile type, of small thickness, able tobe worked three-dimensionally, or formable, so as to obtain a finishedarticle or product either directly or indirectly, in particular withother components.

More precisely, the object of the invention is to achieve a singlemultifunctional part, or mono-part, as opposed, for the same purposes orfor the same objective, to multiple parts, all and each of which aremonofunctional, assembled to one another.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a monolithic ormonoblock flexible part made from technical fabric, having a singlethickness or a variable thickness, but which is multifunctional, in thesense where different individualised areas of said part presenttechnical or practical properties/characteristics respectively differentfrom one discrete area to another.

What is meant by “monolithic” or “monoblock” is that the technicalfabric according to the invention constitutes a single woven part asobtained in a single weaving operation.

In general manner, the present invention is characterized in that:

-   -   (a) depending on the use or the destination of the finished        article or product, in the composition of which the        multifunctional flexible part is integrated, and in particular        the stresses to which said article is subjected, a multiplicity        of functional areas to which functions,        properties/characteristics respectively different from one area        to the other are assigned are defined and marked on a template        of the flat flexible part;        -   This step constitutes the “mapping” step according to the            invention in the sense where, in a suitable coordinates            system, in general orthogonal (weft perpendicular to the            warp), considering the weaving which will be subsequently            involved, it enables areas of the finished article or            product to be differentiated in the latter, but on the            multifunctional flexible part, according to the required            local functions, properties, or characteristics. These areas            will then be delineated, in shape and size, and localised in            the selected coordinates system, itself in general marked or            “adjusted” according to the finished article or product.        -   To take the example of a footwear article, the chosen            orthogonal coordinates system will be adjusted to that of            the left or right shoe, and in particular its axis of            asymmetry, which will preferentially correspond to the axis            of the weft of the technical fabric in question in the            following.        -   In this orthogonal coordinates system, different areas will            be differentiated according to the functions, properties or            characteristics which are locally of importance for use of            the shoe, for example:            -   abrasion resistance at the front of the foot,            -   support of the foot, in the middle, on the left and on                the right of the shoe,            -   breathability in the middle of the foot,            -   flexibility, deformability at other places,            -   etc.        -   These areas mapped in this way then serve the purpose of            constructing the technical fabric according to step (b).    -   (b) A monolithic or monoblock technical fabric is constructed,        but which is heterogeneous, as it is multisector, i.e.        comprising a multiplicity of discrete textile sectors, i.e. of        individualised items of fabrics, and therefore of respectively        different elementary constructions by at least one of the        following parameters:        -   the weave (comprising for example the type, and for repeat,            and/or pace, and/or step number, etc.), and/or the density            of the assembled warp threads and/or weft threads, or thread            count,        -   the nature, in particular chemical, and/or the intrinsic            construction of the threads, and/or their respective sizes,        -   the processing of the threads before and/or after their            assembly,            -   the textile sectors being defined, or this or these                parameters being chosen in relation with said sectors so                that on the one hand these sectors correspond to the                areas defined on the template in step (a), which can be                contained in the different textile sectors respectively,                and on the other hand the properties/characteristics of                the different sectors are those identified or chosen for                the different areas defined in step (a) respectively;    -   (c) in conformity with the construction chosen according to (b),        a suitable weaving loom is selected and prepared. With the        latter, the constructed fabric is woven according to step (b) to        obtain directly, i.e. in a single weaving operation, as a        semi-finished product, a single multisector fabric part;    -   (d) cutting means of the multisector fabric are available        arranged to flat cut the multifunctional flexible part in the        fabric; these cutting means are identifiable with respect to the        drawing of the textile sectors on the width of the multisector        fabric so that the areas defined in step (a) are individually        and respectively contained in the different textile sectors        defined in step (b);    -   (e) with the cutting means positioned and identified with        respect to the multisector technical fabric part, the monoblock        or monolithic but multifunctional flexible part is cut and        obtained directly.

The present invention described in the foregoing in general mannerachieves a new technical fabric, i.e. obtained directly in one and thesame weaving operation. This fabric is characterized in that it has ingeneral manner a monolithic or monoblock construction or structure, asopposed to a patched or stacked structure, i.e. obtained by assembly,for example stitching, of different or identical pieces. Nevertheless,according to the invention, this monolithic structure is heterogeneousas far as its constitution is concerned, i.e. it comprises amultiplicity of textile sectors, i.e. woven, discrete, i.e. ofindividualised items of fabrics, the ordered construction of whichdiffers from one textile sector to another according to the direction ofthe warp and/or that of the weft. Furthermore, according to the presentinvention, these textile or discrete woven sectors differ from oneanother, for example two by two, adjacent or separated from one another,by at least one of the following parameters:

-   -   the weave (including for example the type, and/or repeat, and/or        pace, and/or step number, etc.), and/or the density, or thread        count, of the assembled, intertwined, or interlaced warp threads        and/or weft threads;    -   the nature, in particular physical, of said threads, and/or        their intrinsic construction;    -   the processing of said threads before and/or after their        assembly.

So that the technical or practical properties, functions, orcharacteristics of the different textile sectors are respectivelydifferent, for example considered two by two, in adjacent manner orseparated from one another, in particular in the direction of the warpand/or that of the weft.

Considered on the scale or at the level of a single textile sector,these same technical or practical properties, functions, orcharacteristics can be identical, similar, homogeneous, orinterdependent from one point to another of the textile sectorconsidered.

A technical fabric according to the present invention is essentiallyformed by straight threads and/or mixed line threads, in so far as it isthe woven structure that essentially gives it its consistence, inparticular its quasi-indeformability, which does not exclude that:

-   -   this same fabric can comprise knitted parts, of limited        extension, added onto or integrated in the structure of the        fabric;    -   certain textile sectors can be overwoven, or assembled, in        particular lined with other textile parts, or others, added-on        during the weaving operation or subsequently to the latter, for        example for aesthetic purposes.

Each textile sector, i.e. each individualised fabric item, has anyappropriate shape and dimensions suitable for circumscribing the shapeand dimensions of the area of the multifunctional flexible part whichhas to be contained in and be cut in said sector of the technicalfabric. This shape is in general quadrangular, square or rectangularwhen a weaving loom other than a Jacquard is implemented to weave afabric part according to the invention.

A part or a technical fabric according to the invention can beconstructed so that one or more identical or different templates arerepeated on the fabric along the axis or in the direction of the warpand/or along the axis or in the direction of the weft, each templatebeing constituted or constructed according to the invention, i.e. beingon its own a technical fabric of monolithic or monoblock butheterogeneous, structure, as it comprises a multiplicity of discretetextile sectors the ordered weaved construction of which differs fromone textile sector to another.

A technical fabric according to the invention can comprise one or moretextile sectors having a three-dimensional, i.e. 3D,structure/construction or presenting a certain thickness, whereas theothers are two-dimensional or two-directional, or 2D, all these sectorsremaining obtained by a single weaving operation.

A technical fabric according to the invention can be obtained with anysuitable weaving loom comprising a number of frames adapted to thecomplexity, including the number of different textile sectors, of saidfabric, for example a rapier weaving loom comprising 16 frames orblades.

When a Jacquard loom is implemented, individual control of the warpthreads enables one or more textile sectors of a shape other thanrectangular to be obtained with a total freedom as to the shape of thewoven textile sectors according to the present invention.

A technical fabric according to the present invention therefore makes itpossible to group, and above all to zone or localise, on a singleflexible part, such as a shoe upper, all the properties/characteristicsrequired or designed with respect to the finished article product inwhich said part is integrated.

A technical fabric according to the invention therefore not only enablesweight to be saved, but also enables the manpower required for thepurposes of manufacturing the finished product to be limited to thestrict minimum, or even enables automated production of the latter to beconsidered.

Due to its intrinsic features set out in the foregoing and exemplifiedhereafter, a technical fabric according to the present invention has amultitude of applications, among which:

-   -   obtaining footwear articles, in particular sport shoes,    -   luggage,    -   gloves,    -   individual protection equipment,    -   medical devices such as parietal prostheses.

The present invention concerns any use or employment of a template, andmore generally of a technical fabric as defined in the foregoing, toobtain directly by flat cutting in the fabric at least one flexibleconstruction part that is monolithic or monoblock, but heterogeneous, asit comprises a multiplicity of discrete textile areas havingrespectively different functions, properties/characteristics from onearea to another; each discrete textile area being by definition andindividualised fabric part, the ordered construction of which differsfrom one textile area to another, in the direction of the warp and/or ofthe weft, but at least one of the following parameters:

-   -   the weave and/or the density of the assembled warp threads        and/or of the weft threads;    -   the nature, in particular chemical, of said threads, and/or        their intrinsic construction;    -   processing of said threads before and/or after their assembly.

For this purpose, if cutting means are available, for example by laseror punch, the latter can be positioned and referenced solely withrespect to the design or arrangement of the textile sectors on thetechnical fabric so that the functional areas are individually andrespectively contained in the different textile sectors of the fabric.

The present invention relates to a monolithic or monoblock, butheterogeneous, flexible part able to be obtained by the use orimplementation of a template, relates more generally to an identicaltechnical fabric to the one defined in the foregoing, and relates inparticular to a flexible part comprising a multiplicity of discretetextile areas, also as defined in the foregoing.

The present invention further relates to a manufacturing method of afinished article or product, comprising a flexible part made frommultisectored technical fabric according to the invention, defined anddescribed in the foregoing. By means of the invention, it is thisflexible part which directly gives technical or practicalproperties/characteristics differing from one discrete area or part toanother of said article, comprising said flexible part.

To manufacture one such article, it is possible to:

-   -   start from or procure a flexible part as defined in the        foregoing;    -   shape said flexible part;    -   and, if applicable, assemble said shaped flexible part with one        or more other components of the same article to obtain a        finished article or product.

Due to the present invention, it is not necessary to locate, orient orcontrol the orientation of the flexible part with respect to the othercomponents or parts with which it is assembled or constructed to obtainthe finished product or article.

Such a finished article is for example a footwear article, in particulara sport shoe, for example a shoe for the pursuit of a racket sport; and,in this case, the flexible part defined or described above directlyconstitutes the essential part of the footwear article upper.

The present invention therefore relates to a footwear article, inparticular a sport shoe, for example a shoe for the pursuit of a racketsport, the upper of which is formed by or comprises a technical fabric,of monolithic or monoblock, but heterogeneous, construction orstructure, as it comprises a multiplicity of discrete textile sectorseach constituting an individualised fabric part the ordered constructionwhich differs from one textile sector to another, in the direction ofthe warp and/or that of the weft, by at least one of the followingparameters:

-   -   the weave (including for example the type, and/or the repeat,        and/or the step number, and/or the pace, etc.), and/or the        density of the assembled warp threads and/or weft threads,    -   the nature, in particular chemical, of said threads, and/or        their intrinsic construction,    -   the processing of said threads before and/or after manufacturing        of the footwear article,        so that the technical or practical properties or characteristics        of the upper differ from one discrete area to another of the        latter.

A footwear article produced according to the present invention enablesgood dynamic performances, or others, of the shoe to be conciliated witha weight which remains light, while at the same time ensuring effectivesupport of the foot.

When the terms “multi” or “several” are used in the present descriptionin relation with the areas of the flexible part of the manufacturedarticle, or the sectors of the technical fabric according to theinvention, an integer at least equal to two, and in particular at leastequal to three, has to be considered.

The term “article” or “product” refers to an object, for example amanufactured object, ready-to-use or for a given use, such as a footweararticle, for example a sport shoe.

The term “fabric” refers to a half-product, semi-product, orpre-product, which itself has to be worked or fashioned to obtain acomponent such as a flexible part, or directly a finished article orproduct.

What is meant by “thread” is, as understood in the textile industry, anysingle-dimensional strand having a length larger than its width and/orthickness, comprising filaments, spun threads, fibers, continuous ordiscontinuous threads, cables, or others, constituted by variousmaterials, in general technical materials, i.e. presenting functional orimproved properties/characteristics.

For example, warp threads and/or weft threads of the technical fabricaccording to the invention, in particular of all or part of the textilesectors, each comprise at least one mechanically strong material, forexample a high tenacity polyamide (PA HT), and/or a para-aramid, and/oran abrasion-resistant material, for example a polyamide, and may becoated for example with a polyurethane which may if applicable becharged with ceramic.

Preferentially, the threads of the fabric, warp threads and/or weftthreads, according to the invention have essentially the same size,expressed for example in DTex.

According to the present invention, the warp threads and/or weft threadsindividually have a simple construction, for example a mono-filament, ora complex construction, for example by assembly by portion of severalelementary threads, or by reaming of one or more threads around a strandcore.

The term “flexible part” refers to any part as obtained by cutting, byany suitable means (for example by punching, or laser cutting), markedor referenced with respect to the drawing, generated or constituted byarrangement of different textile sectors, present on the technicalfabric according to the invention. This flexible part comprises amultiplicity of textile areas resulting directly from the registeredcutting of the multisector fabric, these areas having respectivelydifferent functions, properties or characteristics which are exactlythose of the different sectors of the technical fabric in which thecuttings of the different areas are respectively contained. Thisflexible part therefore ultimately has the same construction, andtherefore the same consistence, as those of the technical fabric usedfor cutting, and can be shaped directly, without any other particularmeasurement, to achieve the required finished article or product.

Even if their functions, properties, and characteristics aresubstantially the same, for the sake of clarity of the followingexplanations, the term “sector” will be reserved for the technicalfabric, and the term “area” for the multifunctional flexible part, orfor the flexible part of the article or product obtained with said part.According to the present invention, an area can result from the cutcontained in a corresponding sector of the technical fabric.

According to a preferred, but non-restrictive, embodiment of executionof the invention, the fabric insert is constructed in such a way thatone or more identical or different rectangular templates, themselvesmultisector as defined in the foregoing, are repeated on the fabric inthe direction of the warp and/or the direction of the weft.

Each template is designed to be cut to directly obtain at least onemultifunctional flexible part according to the invention.

In the case of a footwear article, for example a sport shoe, thisindustrial modality makes it possible to obtain by cutting in a singletechnical fabric part, the two uppers (left and right feet) not only ofone pair of shoes, but also of pairs of difference sizes.

In certain cases, in particular to give a certain rigidity in certainareas of the flexible part, or of the finished article or product, forexample at the level of the backstrap of a shoe, after weaving, at leastone sector of the fabric or at least one area of the flexible partcomprises thermofusible warp threads and/or weft threads so as to besuitable for subsequent heat treatment to link and fix the threads toone another, for example to form and/or rigidify the flexible part.

The present invention relates to a technical fabric able to be obtainedby chaining of the steps according to the invention defined in theforegoing, i.e. (a) (mapping), (b) (construction of the technicalfabric), and (c) weaving of the fabric in a single weaving operation.

A technical fabric according to the invention, considered as asemi-product, half-product, or pre-product, presents the aspect of a“patchwork” (but without stitching or other links) or “mosaic” ofsectors, for example of rectangular shape, respectively differingaccording to at least one of the following parameters:

-   -   the weave (including for example the type, and/or the repeat,        step number, pace, etc.), and/or the density of the threads,    -   the nature, in particular chemical, and/or the construction of        the threads,    -   the processing of the threads before and/or after their        assembly.

These multiple textile or woven sectors respectively different in thedirection of the weft and/or the direction of the warp consequentlypresent respectively different functions, properties, or characteristicsfrom one sector to another. These respectively differentproperties/characteristics are the direct consequence of ordered wovenconstructions which respectively differ according to the sectors of thefabric. They will then be directly those of the different areasrespectively of the flexible part obtained directly by registeredcutting of the technical fabric according to the invention, for examplein the template provided for this purpose on the latter, as indicated inthe foregoing.

Considering a technical fabric as defined in the foregoing, theinvention enables the latter to be functionalised at will, or on a caseby case basis, according to the warp and/or weft, in correspondence withthe mapping selected or designed for the finished article or productobtained with a technical fabric according to the invention. Theregistered cut will exactly reproduce the mapping thus selected.

Furthermore, the invention totally circumvents a possible symmetry ofthe finished article product in which the flexible part is integrated,such as a pair of shoes, for which, for any one shoe, the left sidediffers from the right side and the right shoe differs from the leftshoe. In such a case, according to the invention, a single fabric partcan be constructed comprising two templates side by side or one abovethe other, one for the left foot and the other for the right foot,differing from one another by the asymmetric construction of these sametextile sectors, or “mirror” textile sectors, i.e. which correspond by180° rotation around an axis in the lap or the plane of the fabric.

Such a result cannot be obtained by the method according to WO 2013/103363, according to which, whether the left foot or the right foot isinvolved, the flexible part or upper obtained, in this instance thefabric of the upper, has exactly the same construction in the warpand/or weft of the fabric.

According to the invention, the symmetry of a flexible part no longeropposes differentiated zoning of the latter in a single-layer technicalfabric, in the same way as two flexible parts identical as far as theirzoning is concerned but not able to be superposed, can be obtained fromone and the same part or width of single-layer technical fabric.

The present invention relates to a manufacturing method of a finishedarticle or product, integrating, comprising, or constituted by amultifunctional flexible part, which either completely or partiallygives said finished article or product the technical and practicalfunctions, properties/characteristics which are its own, i.e. differentproperties/characteristics from one discrete area to another of saidpart.

According to this method:

-   -   the starting point is a monoblock or monolithic, multifunctional        flexible part, as defined previously;    -   said flexible part is shaped or formed;    -   if applicable, the shaped flexible part is assembled with one or        more other components of said article,        to obtain a finished article or product.

Consequently, the invention relates to any article or product obtainedor able to be obtained by a method as defined in the foregoing. Such anarticle can comprise one or more flexible parts according to the presentinvention, i.e. each being monoblock or monolithic, but heterogeneous,as they are multifunctional, or comprising a multiplicity ofrespectively different textile sectors.

To serve as an example of such an article, a footwear article will beconsidered in the following, and more particularly a sport shoe, forexample a shoe for the pursuit of a racket sport. In such a case, theupper is directly a multifunctional flexible part obtained as defined inthe foregoing.

The present invention is now described according to two exemplaryembodiments for obtaining the upper (multifunctional flexible part), andthen a shoe for racket sports, in this case tennis, with reference tothe following figures, i.e.:

FIG. 1, which represents, in a flat view, the asymmetric upper 1 of atennis shoe, the left foot, showing lacing holes 2 on each side of anaxial gullet 30 (cf. axis of asymmetry 20), for a lace to pass through;

FIGS. 2 and 3 respectively represent a first and second mappings, ortemplates 41 and 42, respectively of the same upper represented in FIG.1;

making abstraction of the cutting line 50 and of the hatched cut part51, FIGS. 4 and 5 present two templates 61 and 62 drawn or plotted inrespectively different technical fabrics according to the invention, ina warp(6)/weft(5) system of the fabric to which they belong, constructedaccording to the mappings or templates 41 and 42 of FIGS. 2 and 3respectively;

FIG. 6 schematically represents, in a flat view, a technical fabric part3 comprising templates 4 repeated in the direction of the weft 5, andalso in the direction of the warp 6, each template having for example atextile construction according to FIG. 4 explained with reference toExample 1, or according to FIG. 5 explained with reference to Example 2;

FIG. 7 schematically represents, in cross-section, a footwear article 7,for example a sport shoe, more particularly a tennis shoe, comprising orintegrating a previously formed multifunctional flexible part 1constituting the upper of the shoe, then assembled by sticking orthermo-adhesion with a sole 8.

According to FIG. 1, the upper 1 of a sport shoe is represented in aflat view, the shoe in this instance being a tennis shoe, for examplerepresented schematically in cross-section in FIG. 7, from which thepresent invention will now be explained in detail.

Conventionally, this upper is a flexible part, formed by assembly inadjacent and/or superposed manner, by sticking and/or stitching, ofdifferent pieces made from different flexible materials of smallthickness, for example leather, fabric, or plastic material in sheetform, etc. A detailed explanation will not be given here of thisassembly, which is represented in FIG. 1 in simplified manner bydifferent drawings inside the line 71 delineating the upper of the shoerepresented in flat manner.

With reference to the axis of asymmetry 20, for example considering thedirection from the front to the back of the shoe, and/or theinside/outside direction of the shoe, from left to right according toFIG. 1, it is obviously possible to locate or position, on a template 41or 42, different areas of the upper moreover defined as far as shape anddimensions are concerned, in this instance rectangular, to whichdifferent functions are assigned dependent on or related to the use orthe performances of the shoe, or for which the shoemanufacturer/designer requires different technical or practicalproperties or characteristics differentiated according to the areasinvolved.

What is meant by “axis of asymmetry”, when a shoe is involved, is theintersection of the horizontal plane with the sagittal plane of a foot,on each side of which, as shown by FIG. 1, the two halves of the shoereceiving said foot are respectively different, at least as far as theirrespective shapes are concerned.

Among these properties, the following can be cited for example purposes:

-   -   the abrasion resistance which, in certain areas, has to be high        due to the possible friction of the upper of the shoe with the        ground,    -   support of the foot at certain places of the upper, which        requires the flexible material of the upper to have a certain        tenacity or a small elongation under tension,    -   a certain permeability, or transparency, enabling the foot to        “breathe”, or breathability,    -   at certain places, a deformability of the flexible part or        upper, for the comfort of the foot,    -   and furthermore at other places, the technical possibility of        being thermoformed, for example at the location of the counter        of the upper and therefore of the shoe.

The person skilled in the trade i.e. the sport shoedesigner/manufacturer, is therefore led to differentiate the propertiesof the upper 1 according to the functional areas of the latter,depending on or in correspondence with the use of the shoe, and inparticular the required performances. This differentiated approach ofthe tennis shoe for example will lead this designer/manufacturer, forthe same shoe upper, to different “zonings”, in terms of properties andcharacteristics, depending on the models proposed or made available tothe user.

According to FIGS. 2 and 3, from the template of the upper representedin FIG. 1, and marked as previously indicated, i.e. from the axis ofasymmetry 20, from the front to the back of the shoe, taking account ofthe stresses to which the latter is subjected, two respectivelydifferent zonings can be established or chosen according to thetemplates 41 and 42 of FIGS. 2 and 3 respectively.

In a first example according to FIG. 2, the following can be seen, in acoordinates system formed by four lines parallel to the axis ofasymmetry 20, i.e. the two straight edges of the template, i.e. 23 onthe left and 24 on the right, and two intermediate lines 21 and 22, onthe right side of the template, and from left to right:

-   -   two first adjacent areas A1 (between the lines 23 and 21) and A2        (between the lines 21 and 22), respectively on the two sides of        the line 21, together forming a weft strip A, which will each        have to resist abrasion;    -   two second adjacent areas B1 (between the lines 23 and 21) and        B1 (between the lines 21 and 22), respectively on the two sides        of the line 21, together forming a weft strip B, which will both        have to be flexible, permeable and breathing, while at the same        time performing support of the foot;    -   a third rectangular area C1 (between the lines 23 and 21) which        will have to contribute to support of the foot, a fourth        rectangular area C2 (between the lines 21 and 22) which will        particularly have to resist abrasion, and again a third area C1        will have to contribute to support of the foot; the areas        C1/C2/C1 together forming a weft strip C;    -   a fifth area D1 (between the lines 23 and 21), another fifth        area D2 (between the lines 21 and 22), and again a fifth area        D1, which will each have to perform support of the foot and        facilitate breathing of the latter; the areas D1, D2 and D3        together forming a weft strip D;    -   a sixth area E1 (between the lines 23 and 21), another sixth        area E2 (between the lines 21 and 22), and again a sixth area        E1, which will each have to perform support of the foot, while        enabling thermoforming of the upper; the areas E1,E2,E1 together        forming a weft strip E.

In the zoning defined above, by convention, the areas for whichidentical or similar properties are required are designated by the samereference letter and the same numeral; for example, C1 refers to anarea, called third area, which, on each side of an area C2, will have tocontribute to support of the foot. And the upper-case letters A to E,from the front to the back of the shoe, refer to different weft strips,staged from the front to the back of the shoe, each comprising a seriesof areas as set out in the foregoing; for example, A refers to a narrowstrip, at the front of the shoe, which will have to resist abrasion,whereas E refers to a broad strip, at the back of the shoe, which willhave to perform support of the foot while enabling thermoforming of theupper.

In a different manner, according to a second example, with reference tothe template 42 according to FIG. 3, another zoning of the upper 1 ofthis same shoe is performed, which establishes, again in the samecoordinates system:

-   -   two first rectangular areas A1 and A2, respectively on the two        sides of the axis of asymmetry 20, which will both have to        resist abrasion;    -   two second rectangular areas B1 and B2, respectively on the two        sides of the axis of asymmetry 20, which will both have to be        flexible and breathing, while performing support of the foot;    -   two third rectangular areas C1 and C2, respectively on the two        sides of the axis of asymmetry 20, which will both have to        perform a first support of the foot and ensure its breathing;    -   two fourth rectangular areas D1 and D2, respectively on the two        sides of the axis of asymmetry 20, which will both have to        perform a second support of the foot and ensure its breathing;    -   two fifth areas E1 and E2, respectively on the two sides of the        axis of asymmetry 20, which will both have to perform a third        support of the foot, with the possibility of thermoforming the        upper.

It can be observed that the previously defined zonings according toFIGS. 2 and 3 can differ from one another, essentially by the fact thatareas of different densities are arranged differently in the width ofthe template 41 or 42. According to FIG. 2, an over-densified areaexists between the two lines 21 and 22, parallel to the axis ofasymmetry 20, with two areas of identical and normal density on eachside of the latter. According to FIG. 3, an area of normal density andan area of larger density, with the same widthwise extension, arearranged on each side of the axis of asymmetry 20.

From a template 41 or 42 zoned as in the foregoing, i.e. according tothe functional, technical, or practical choice or choices, or the choiceof performances of the designer/manufacturer of the shoe, and thereforeof the upper, a template is constructed in the direction of the warp 6and in the direction of the weft 5, respectively 61 or 62, or atechnical fabric part comprising the latter, having a monolithic ormonoblock, but heterogeneous structure, as it results from the textileconstruction choices set out in the following.

In practice:

-   -   as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, to construct the technical fabrics        respectively 31 and 32, two types of warping are implemented        respectively O₁ and O₂, differing from one another by the        density of the warp threads, the size, and/or the construction,        and/or the nature of said threads; according to FIG. 4, the        warping O₁ is the same between the lines in the direction of the        warp 203 and 201, corresponding to the lines 23 and 21 of the        template 41, and the lines 202 and 204 corresponding to the        lines 22 and 24 of the template 41, whereas a different warping        O₂ is used between the lines in the direction of the warp 201        and 202; according to FIG. 5, the warping O₁ between the warp        lines 203 and 200 (corresponding to the axis of asymmetry 20 of        the template 42) is different from the warping O₂ used between        lines 200 and 204;    -   as also shown by FIGS. 4 and 5, to construct the technical        fabrics 31 and 32, different arrangements of the weft threads        are implemented in the weft strips (a) to (e) shown in each of        FIGS. 4 and 5; these arrangements of the weft threads,        determined by frames arranged differently, differ from one        another by the density of the weft threads, the size, and/or the        construction, and/or the nature of said threads;    -   the template 61 or 62 of the technical fabric 31 or 32 can        correspond to the selected template 41 or 42, in shape and/or in        dimensions;    -   the previous textile construction has the result that the        technical fabric obtained is divided into different discrete,        individualised, textile parts, or textile sectors (a₁ to d₁; a₂        to e₂), that are identical in shape and/or dimensions to the        different template areas; textile sectors which have been        designed and constructed individually to comply with the        functional or technical specificities respectively expected for        the different areas (A₁ to E₁; A₂ to E₂);    -   for this purpose, not only the warp and/or weft threads are        differentiated, for example by the chemical nature and/or their        intrinsic technical characteristics, and/or their construction,        but above all, the differentiated construction, or composite        warping, of the warp threads, in the direction of the weft, and        also the different criss-crossing mode(s) of the weft threads,        in the direction of the warp, enable the different textile        sectors obtained on the template 61 or 62 of the technical        fabric to be achieved (in the warp/weft system) and to be varied        at will.

The person skilled in the trade, with any present-day weaving loom, canthereby design and produce any templates or sectored technical fabricparts, showed for example purposes in FIGS. 4 and 5 respectively, thedifferent textile sectors referenced by a lower-case letter respectivelycorresponding to the different areas referenced by an upper-case letterin FIGS. 2 and 3 respectively.

The two templates 61 and 62 represented in FIGS. 4 and 5 respectivelybelong to the two respectively different, multi-sectored technicalfabrics 31 and 32.

To construct these two different technical fabrics, i.e. 31 and 32,first of all threads are taken differing from one another by theirchemical nature and/or their construction, referenced CA, CB, TA for thewarp threads and TB, TC, TD for the weft threads in Examples 1 and 2below. Both the physical characteristics and the chemical composition ofthese threads are set out in detail in these examples.

The elementary or discrete textile sectors to be obtained by a singleweaving operation can then be differentiated by the choice of theconstructions or weavings used from one sector to the other, as shown inExamples 1 and 2 ci-après.

Finally, the density or thread count of the warp threads and/or of theweft threads can be varied to respectively achieve different textile orwoven sectors, as also shown in Examples 1 and 2 below.

The fabrics according to Examples 1 and 2 below are obtained by weavingwith a rapier loom comprising sixteen frames.

EXAMPLE 1 Fabric 31 of FIG. 4 Warp Threads:

-   -   CA=1 100 Dtex PAR 16%/PA HT 67%/PU 17% (in thread weight)    -   CB=1 100 Dtex PAR 37%/PA HT 40%/PU 23%

Weft Threads:

-   -   TA=1 100 Dtex PAR 16%/PA HT 67%/PU 17%    -   TB=1 100 Dtex PA HT 86%/PU 14%    -   TC=1 100 Dtex PAR 37%/PA HT 40%/PU 23%    -   TD=1 100 Dtex CoPolyamide 100%

-   PAR=para-aramid, for example Kevlar®

-   PA HT=high tenacity polyamide, for example Cordura®

-   PU=polyurethane

-   CoPolyamide=thermofusible polyamide (low melting temperature)

Warp:

Warp threads and warp pace=6×(220 CA/100 CB/60 CA)=2,280 threads

Warp density: O1=13.44 threads/cm/O2=16.80 threads/cm→warp spread=160.5cm

With reference to FIG. 4, the distance 203/201 is 18 cm, the distancebetween 201 and 202 is 7.5 cm, and the distance between 202 and 204 is3.5 cm.

Wefts and Weavings Used:

-   Strip a=42 TB Plain (11 picks/cm)-   Strip b=84 TA Natté 2/2 (15 picks/cm)-   Strip c=68 TC Plain (11 picks/cm)-   Strip d=110 TC Serge 3/1 (13 picks/cm)-   Strip e=108 TD (11 picks/cm)-   Total repeat picks=412

For example purposes, the textile sector (a₁) having a plain weavingdiffers from the textile sector (a₂) having a plain weaving by theconstruction of the warp threads, and from the textile sector (b₁)having a natté weaving by the construction of the weft threads.

EXAMPLE 2 Fabric 32 of FIG. 5 Warp Threads:

-   -   CA=1 100 Dtex PAR 16%/PA HT 67%/PU 17% (in thread weight)    -   CB=1 100 Dtex PA HT 86%/PU 14%

Weft Threads:

-   -   TA=1 100 Dtex PAR 16%/PA HT 67%/PU 17%    -   TB=1 100 Dtex PA HT 86%/PU 14%    -   TC=1 100 Dtex PAR 37%/PA HT 40%/PU 23%    -   TD=1 100 Dtex CoPolyamide 100%

Warp:

Warp threads and warp pace=6×(180 CA/226 CB)=2,436 threads

Warp density: O1=13.44 threads/cm/O2=16.80 threads/cm→warp spread=161 cm

With reference to FIG. 5, the distance 203/200 or 200/204 is 145 cm.

Wefts and Weavings Used:

-   Strip a=42 TB Plain (11 picks/cm)-   Strip b=84 TA Nattè 2/2 (15 picks/cm)-   Strip c=68 TC Plain (11 picks/cm)-   Strip d=128 TC Serge 2/2 (15 picks/cm)-   Strip e=108 TD (11 picks/cm)-   Total repeat picks=430

For example purposes, textile sector (a₁) having a plain weaving differsfrom textile sector (a₂) having a plain weaving by the construction ofthe warp threads, and from textile sector (b₁) having a nattè weaving bythe construction of the weft threads.

As shown by FIGS. 4 and 5, for each fabric 31 or 32, the strips a to eof fabric correspond to the areas A to E defined on the template of theupper 1. And the properties/characteristics conferred by the choices oftextile construction made for these different textile or woven sectorsare those selected or required for the different areas defined on thetemplate of the upper 1.

To sum up, a technical fabric according to the state of the art,including according to WO 2013/103 363, can be graphically representedor defined by the single drawing or sketch of its weaving, whereas thegraphic representation or definition of a technical fabric according tothe present invention comprises a multiplicity of separate and differentdrawings or sketches which are those of the elementary constructionsrespectively of the different textile sectors.

In practice, as shown by FIG. 6, a technical fabric 3 will beconstructed and woven in a single operation so as to repeat a template61 or 62 both in the direction of the weft 5 and/or in the direction ofthe warp 6, presenting the sectored textile pattern or drawing accordingto FIG. 4 (Example 1) or FIG. 5 (Example 2).

More exactly, a technical fabric part obtained, representedschematically in FIG. 6, will comprise a first template 4 correspondingto a left foot, directed towards a first weft edge of the part, and asecond template 4 obtained by turning and rotation through 180° of thefirst template 4 around an axis of symmetry parallel to the weft,corresponding to the right foot, but directed towards the other weftedge of the same part.

A pair of uppers each corresponding to one and the same pair of shoescan thus be subsequently obtained by the cuts specified in the followingin a technical fabric part according to the invention.

Referring to a template 61 or 62 according to FIG. 4 or 5, comprised ina part or width of a multisector technical fabric according to theinvention, and having cutting means (for example punch cutting)available, it is possible to cut flat along the closed cutting line 50in the fabric and to directly obtain the flexible, multifunctional cutpart 51, or shoe upper 1, required for manufacturing the latter.

These cutting means naturally have to be referenced, arranged, orpositioned with respect to the drawing of the template 61 or 62, and thefabric part, so that the areas previously defined with reference toFIGS. 2 and 3 are individually and exactly contained in the differentcorresponding sectors of the template according to FIG. 4 or 5.

With these cutting means thus positioned and referenced with respect tothe fabric part, the upper or monoblock or monolithic, butmultifunctional flexible part 1 required for manufacturing or producingthe sport shoe 7 concerned is cut and obtained directly.

1. Technical fabric (3, 31, 32), obtained or able to be obtained in asingle weaving operation, characterized in that the fabric, ofmonolithic but heterogeneous construction or structure, comprises amultiplicity of discrete textile sectors (a₁ to e1; a₂ to e₂) eachconstituting an individualised fabric part, the ordered construction ofwhich differs from one textile sector to another, in the direction ofthe warp (6) and/or that of the weft (5), by at least one of thefollowing parameters: the weaving and/or the density of the assembledwarp threads and/or weft threads, the nature, in particular chemical, ofsaid threads, and/or their intrinsic construction, the processing ofsaid threads before and/or after their assembly, so that the technicalor practical properties or characteristics of the different textilesectors are respectively different, for example in the direction of thewarp and/or that of the weft.
 2. Technical fabric according to claim 1,characterized in that it is constructed in such a way that one or moreidentical or different templates (61, 62) each comprising a multiplicityof different textile sectors according to claim 1, are repeated on thefabric in the direction of the warp (6) and/or the direction of the weft(5).
 3. Technical fabric according to claim 1, characterized in thatwarp threads (6) and/or weft threads (5) each comprise at least onemechanically resistant material, for example a para-amid, and/or anabrasion resistant material, for example a polyamide, and may be coated,for example with a polyurethane, which may be charged with ceramic. 4.Technical fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that at leastone textile sector comprises thermofusible warp and/or weft threadssuitable for subsequent heat treatment so as to bind the threads to oneanother, for example to form and/or locally rigidify the fabric. 5.Technical fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the warpthreads (6) and/or weft threads (5) individually have a simple orcomplex intrinsic construction.
 6. Use of a template (61, 62) in atechnical fabric, or of a technical fabric (3) identical to that definedby any one of claims 1 to 5, as a semi-finished product to directlyobtain, by flat cutting in the fabric, at least one multifunctionalflexible part (1) comprising a multiplicity of functional areas (A₁ toE₁; A₂ to E₂) having respectively different functions,properties/characteristics from one area to another.
 7. Use according toclaim 6, characterized in that cutting means are available and thelatter are positioned and referenced with respect to the design drawingof the different textile sectors on the technical fabric so that thefunctional areas are individually and respectively contained in thedifferent textile sectors of the fabric.
 8. Monolithic, multifunctionalflexible part (1), able to be obtained or obtained by use according toclaim 6 or 7 of a template (61, 62) in a technical fabric, or of atechnical fabric (3) identical to that defined by any one of claims 1 to5.
 9. Manufacturing method of a finished article (7), or product,comprising a flexible part (1) according to claim 8, which givestechnical or practical properties/characteristics differing from onediscrete area to another of said part, and therefore of said article,method characterized in that: (a) said flexible part (1) is initiallyprocured, (b) said flexible part is shaped, (c) the shaped flexible partis assembled with one or more other components (8) of said article toobtain a finished article or product (7).
 10. Article (7) or productable to be obtained by a method according to claim
 9. 11. Footweararticle (7) according to claim 10, in particular a sport shoe, forexample a shoe for the pursuit of a racket sport, characterized in thatthe flexible part (1) according to claim 8 directly constitutes theupper of the footwear article.
 12. Footwear article (7), in particular ashoe for the pursuit of a sport, for example a racket sport,characterized in that the upper (1) of the footwear article isconstituted by or comprises a technical fabric of monolithic butheterogeneous construction or structure, as it comprises a multiplicityof discrete textile sectors each constituting an individualised fabricpart, the ordered construction of which differs from one textile sectorto another in the direction of the warp and/or that of the weft, by atleast one of the following parameters: the weaving and/or the density ofthe assembled warp threads and/or weft threads, the nature, inparticular chemical, of said threads, and/or their intrinsicconstruction, the processing of said threads before and/or aftermanufacturing of the footwear article (7), so that the technical orpractical properties or characteristics of the upper (1) differ from onediscrete area to another of the latter.